Dayton Audio rs1202 Leaflet

© Dayton Audio

®

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Please be aware that the RS1202’s powerful woofer motor as-

semblies can emit stray magnetic fields, and these fields can have 

a detrimental effect on CRT type TV and computer screens, and 

magnetic storage media such as videotapes, audio cassettes, and 

computer data storage discs like floppies and zips. Try to maintain 

a safe distance of 2 to 3 feet from any of these items to prevent 

damage, or the loss of recorded data. The side of the subwoofer 

that includes the control panel should be kept at least 2 to 4 inches 

from a wall or other surface, but special care should be taken to 

avoid close proximity to upholstered surfaces or drapes. Please 

make sure that the control panel has enough free air space around 

it so that proper cooling can take place. Refrain from using the 

system in wet or rainy outdoor locations.

Most pre-amps and receivers have a stereo line output that fol-

lows the output level that is set by the system master volume 

control; these outputs would connect to the line-level inputs on the 

subwoofer amp control panel. Many newer multi-channel receivers 

have a dedicated mono subwoofer output, usually labeled LFE or 

Low Frequency Effects. The use of this output will permit you to 

have separate control over the bass output of the source, and it 

also permits you to set a crossover frequency. When using an LFE 

output, use a single cable to connect to the LFE input on the sub 

amp; keep in mind that this input bypasses the internal low pass 

filter on the amplifier. For either configuration, the system will oper-

ate with the greatest linearity and least noise if all gain controls are 

balanced; that is, no single gain control is operating at much more 

than 50% of its total range. If one output is set at 10% and it feeds 

a corresponding input that ends up at 90% then hum, noise, and 

overly sensitive control characteristics may result. 

The RS1202 comes shipped standard for 110V U.S. operation; 

simply connect the included IEC power cord to your wall outlet. 

For 220V input, remove the fuse holder, rotate 180 degrees, and 

re-install. In most 220V applications a separate power cord will be 

required and is not included. When connecting your subwoofer for 

the first time, it is important to remember to start with the amplifier 

OFF and the gain control set at minimum. Start some source pro-

gram that contains good bass material, apply AC power to the sub-

woofer, and slowly increase the gain on the sub amp. You should 

hear a gradual increase in deep bass output as you bring up the 

volume. When the overall balance between low and high frequency 

seems close, adjust the phase switch and keep it set where the 

sub-bass response sounds best in your listening location. You may 

then use the parametric equalizer to finish off the general contour 

of the low frequencies, or to correct a troublesome room mode or 

resonance. These steps to achieve an optimum room response 

should be used in conjunction with the steps described in the next 

section, because the physical location of the speaker components 

in the system can affect performance as much as the electronic 

adjustments.

The requirement for the room location of a subwoofer is substan-

tially different than what we would expect for full range speakers. 

Due to the omnidirectional nature of sub bass, we are not con-

cerned with stereo imaging, and bass tends to fill a room with little 

bearing on positioning the subwoofer in direct line-of-sight. Bass 

energy is easily reinforced by reflection, and as those reflections 

recombine, the resulting buildup can cause very irregular response 

in the room in the form of peaks. Similarly, phase cancellations can 

occur when the sound waves at a specific frequency cause de-

structive interference and cancel each other out, and create holes 

or nulls in the response. Keeping the subwoofer out of the center 

between two opposing walls, and also out of corners, will help to 

achieve the most even, consistent response. Some listeners may 

prefer the “boomier” sound that results from placing a sub in a 

corner, or need the increase in gain to compensate for some other 

factor. It is generally a good idea to avoid placing the subwoofer 

where it is perfectly centered between any two opposing parallel 

planes (two walls; or the floor and ceiling). In some cases, moving 

the enclosure just a few feet can make a noticeable difference. 

Aligning the subwoofer along a line drawn between the left/right 

main speakers will help to keep the speakers in the same time 

domain and will improve coherence. When properly integrated, the 

actual location of the subwoofer will disappear and the bass will 

seem to be coming from the main left/right speakers on either side. 

Test tones and measurement equipment can help you with your 

system setup, but good results can also be achieved by spend-

ing time with a couple of well recorded CDs with which you are 

especially familiar. You may find it useful to have an associate make 

adjustments to the various system controls, or even move speaker 

enclosures, while you remain in a consistent listening position. 

After satisfying yourself that your primary location is OK, move 

around a bit to make sure that the wider soundstage is acceptable. 

There’s no good reason why a single high quality subwoofer cannot 

be used for both home stereo and home theatre applications. Each 

person has his or her own individual preference as far as tonality, 

loudness, range, or definition is concerned, and the biggest differ-

ence between home theatre and home stereo is not the hardware 

as much as how the hardware is used. A typical home theatre 

system will tend to have the output of the subwoofer turned up a 

bit more than what would be appropriate for home stereo. Most 

cinema soundtracks are mixed with the sub-bass dialed in to create 

both musical support and dramatic special effects. It is up to you to 

decide how much you want the Imperial Battle Cruisers to shake 

your house.

The addition of a new active sub to an existing system can some-

times result in the subwoofer beginning to hum. While it would be 

easy to assume that the new product is at fault or even defective, 

it is usually just an indicator that it is time to take a closer look at 

the overall grounding of the audio system. To start with, verify that 

all audio equipment in the system is on the same AC power circuit. 

The outlets in a listening area may or may not all be on the same 

breaker, some could even be on a completely different breaker 

panel. Always make sure that all equipment grounds are in good 

condition, and NEVER remove the ground pin from a power plug. 

There are some cases where the actual power line has some form 

of interference but the most common cause of noise is a ground 

loop, meaning that the system’s different ground points lack a com-

mon potential. The cable TV line can be the cause of hum in multi-

source home audio/video systems. Just temporarily disconnect the 

cable line, and if the hum stops then the use of an inline isolation 

transformer is suggested. Other situations may require the installa-

tion of an improved earth ground (connection to a metal water pipe 

or grounding rod) in the vicinity of the audio/video system. The key 

is to proceed slowly and step by step, taking care to identify which 

cables or combinations of cables cause noise when connected.

If bass output seems low, consider the different parts of the system 

that can contribute to gain or volume. Try moving the subwoofer 

to a corner. Confirm that the bass output control of the receiver is 

set correctly (if so equipped). Be sure to use a “Y” cord to connect 

both line level inputs if you are using a mono source. Verify that the 

source that is feeding the subwoofer does not have a crossover of 

its own that is set to a lower frequency than the one in the sub-

woofer speaker.

Frequency Range: 

20Hz-180Hz

SPL: 

Exceeds 120 dB from 30 to 90 Hz 

Amplifier Power Output:  950 Watts RMS
Signal to Noise Ratio: 

98 dB A-weighted

Input Impedance: 

12K ohms

Dimensions: 

21" H x 27-3/8" W x 17-1/2" D

 

(including bottom trim)

Net Weight: 

169 lbs.

Power Requirements: 

User switchable 115V/230V, 50-60 Hz.  

 

(10A GMA fuse)

Last Revised:  11/5/2010