honda-automobiles accessories c100 User Manual

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For stripping the engine, see the 'Horizontal OHC 49-86cc Engine' page. 
Refitting the engine is basically a reversal of the removal. 
1.10 Fit the footpeg bar. 
1.11 Lift the back of the engine into the frame and slide the rear mounting bolt through. 
1.12 Lift the front of the engine and slide the upper engine mount bolt through. 
1.13 Fit the nuts on the rear and upper mounting bolts and tighten. 
1.14 Fit the muffler, making sure that a gasket ring is fitted. 
1.15 Remove your paper bung out of the intake port, check that there is a gasket fitted and refit the carburettor. 
1.16 Refit the front engine mounting straps and the legshields. Note that the straps are marked with an 'L' or 'R' 
to show you which side they go on. 
1.17 Refit the chain, and the engine sprocket if it was removed. Check the chain tension and adjust if necessary. 
1.18 Refit the carburettor overflow pipe and the engine loom. 
1.19 Refit the left hand side cover. 
1.20 Refit the gear pedal if it has been removed. 
1.21 Start the engine and check that everything is working, that there are no leaks from the exhaust or into that 
air intake system. Make sure that the engine revs freely (although be careful here if the engine has been rebuilt. 
The engine may smoke an awful lot if you have had it apart, but do not worry unduly as it is just oil in the 
combustion chamber and around the rings that is burning off. It may take 10 minutes for the smoke to 
disappear). 
1.22 Refit the plastic carburettor access panel. 
2.0 Front Wheel & Brake Assembly
This is quite an easy job as the wheel assembly is quite light. Note that it is important to note where the wheel 
spacer goes, and that the brake shoes are the same as the Honda C50 & C70 Cub/Passport. Generally it is easier 
to buy Cub/Passport parts. 
Not all the operations below may be necessary if you just want to work on one particular component. 
 
2.1 Put some kind of stand/strong box/bottle crate under the engine so that the front wheel is off the ground. 
2.2 Disconnect the front brake cable by removing the adjuster nut, and the speedometer cable. Note: This does 
not have to be done if you are not going to work on the brake. 
2.3 Pull out the cotter pin/split pin and remove the axle nut. 
2.4 Pull the axle spindle out, this may require a few taps with a soft mallet. 
2.5 Remove the front wheel, catching the side collar if it falls off the front wheel (the side collar is only held in 
by the oil seal). 
2.6 Remove the side collar and the brake, be careful as the speedometer gear may fall out of the brake. 
2.7 Remove the brake shoes by pulling the shoes against the force of the springs to get them off the mounting 
pivots. 
2.8 Remove the external brake operating arm and push the brake shoe cam through from the outside. 
2.9 Remove the oil seal and bearings, if required. 
2.10 Deflate the tyre. 
2.11 Remove the 4 bolts attaching the wheel to the hub and remove the hub. 
2.12 Remove the remaining bolts holding the 2 rim halves together, and remove the wheel rims from the tyre. 
Check the wheel rims for damage, examine both the inside and outside of the tyre to make sure no stones or 
metal are embedded in the rubber. Measure the brake linings and check they are in good condition. Examine the 
hub part of the brake to make sure the metal is not scored or worn unevenly. 
2.13 To assmble the front wheel it is necessary to have the tube inflated just enough to give it shape. Put the 
tube in the tyre. 
2.14 Fit the wheel rims, feeding the tube valve through the valve hole in one of the rims. Make sure that you do 
not pinch the tube. 
2.15 Fit the four 6 mm bolts through the rim and do them up but not tight.