Листовка для Home Theater Direct HTD-R3S
Hooking Up the Wires
The terminals will accommodate up to 14-gauge speaker wire, which should be used for longer connections (greater than 50 feet
of wire). For shorter distances, 16- or 18-gauge wire will suffice. For behind-the-wall installations such as this, always use UL
Class 2 or 3 approved cable for compliance with local building codes. Leave about two feet of extra wire at the speaker end to
make installation and positioning of the speaker easier. Do not use staples, nails or other metal objects to secure the speaker
wire. The resulting short could affect your system’s performance, and could also damage components in your system, especially
the amplifier. You will get the best sound quality and least amount of hum by keeping the speaker wires at least 18 inches away
from other electrical wires and cables. Always cross speaker wires with other cable at a 90-degree angle.
When connecting a speaker, it is very important to retain the correct polarity. To do this, be sure that the wire attached to the +,
red, or positive terminal on the speaker connects to the +, red, or positive terminal on the other component. Similarly, the -,
black, or negative terminal on the speaker must connect to the respective -, black, or negative terminal on the other component.
of wire). For shorter distances, 16- or 18-gauge wire will suffice. For behind-the-wall installations such as this, always use UL
Class 2 or 3 approved cable for compliance with local building codes. Leave about two feet of extra wire at the speaker end to
make installation and positioning of the speaker easier. Do not use staples, nails or other metal objects to secure the speaker
wire. The resulting short could affect your system’s performance, and could also damage components in your system, especially
the amplifier. You will get the best sound quality and least amount of hum by keeping the speaker wires at least 18 inches away
from other electrical wires and cables. Always cross speaker wires with other cable at a 90-degree angle.
When connecting a speaker, it is very important to retain the correct polarity. To do this, be sure that the wire attached to the +,
red, or positive terminal on the speaker connects to the +, red, or positive terminal on the other component. Similarly, the -,
black, or negative terminal on the speaker must connect to the respective -, black, or negative terminal on the other component.
Mounting the Speaker
(if you are unsure, consult a professional contractor)
Yes, you will be cutting a hole in the wall or ceiling. With the right tools and a little extra care and preparation, installing the in-
wall speaker can be both quick and easy. Carefully cut out the hole drawn on the cardboard template at the perforated edge
labeled “CUT ALONG OUTSIDE RING FOR MOUNTING TEMPLATE”. (Note: the inside ring on the template can be used
to shield the woofer while you paint the frame.) Next, position the template, now a border, where you have chosen to mount the
speaker and trace along the inside edge. Make your cuts along this line. A utility knife will make the cleanest cuts in drywall.
A keyhole saw or an electric jigsaw may also be used. Try to keep the cuts neat, however the frame will overlap the hole to hide
any rough edges. With the wall open, run the speaker wires into position and leave about two feet of extra wire at the opening.
Remove the grille from the frame by pressing the quick-turn mounting screws from the back of the speaker into the grille.
Attach the speaker wires to the speaker terminals. Turn all of the quick-turn mounting arms inward and with the grille removed,
insert the speaker into the mounting hole. Use a Phillips head screwdriver to turn the screws slowly clockwise. The quick-turn
mounting system and frame will “sandwich” or clamp around the wall to hold the speaker securely in place. Do not over-
tighten. Before replacing the grille, position the swivel tweeter so that it points toward the place in which you will most often be
listening to the speaker.
wall speaker can be both quick and easy. Carefully cut out the hole drawn on the cardboard template at the perforated edge
labeled “CUT ALONG OUTSIDE RING FOR MOUNTING TEMPLATE”. (Note: the inside ring on the template can be used
to shield the woofer while you paint the frame.) Next, position the template, now a border, where you have chosen to mount the
speaker and trace along the inside edge. Make your cuts along this line. A utility knife will make the cleanest cuts in drywall.
A keyhole saw or an electric jigsaw may also be used. Try to keep the cuts neat, however the frame will overlap the hole to hide
any rough edges. With the wall open, run the speaker wires into position and leave about two feet of extra wire at the opening.
Remove the grille from the frame by pressing the quick-turn mounting screws from the back of the speaker into the grille.
Attach the speaker wires to the speaker terminals. Turn all of the quick-turn mounting arms inward and with the grille removed,
insert the speaker into the mounting hole. Use a Phillips head screwdriver to turn the screws slowly clockwise. The quick-turn
mounting system and frame will “sandwich” or clamp around the wall to hold the speaker securely in place. Do not over-
tighten. Before replacing the grille, position the swivel tweeter so that it points toward the place in which you will most often be
listening to the speaker.
Installing the Grille
The metal grille, as well as the plastic frame, may be painted to match any room. If you choose to paint them, do so before
attaching the grille to the speaker. The grille is held in place by a friction fit and is difficult to remove once the speaker is
installed. If the grille feels a little loose, or you are concerned about a grille falling from a ceiling installation, we have provided
a small amount of putty, which you can apply (sparingly) to the inside rim of the speaker before you insert the grille. The putty
acts as an additional adhesive between the grille and the frame.
attaching the grille to the speaker. The grille is held in place by a friction fit and is difficult to remove once the speaker is
installed. If the grille feels a little loose, or you are concerned about a grille falling from a ceiling installation, we have provided
a small amount of putty, which you can apply (sparingly) to the inside rim of the speaker before you insert the grille. The putty
acts as an additional adhesive between the grille and the frame.
Warranty
All HTD speakers carry a five-year parts and labor warranty. Details of the warranty and return authorization process are
available on our web site. Your warranty registration occurred at the time your order was placed. There is no need to fill out
additional forms or maintain receipts.
From all of us at Home Theater Direct, thank you for choosing HTD!
available on our web site. Your warranty registration occurred at the time your order was placed. There is no need to fill out
additional forms or maintain receipts.
From all of us at Home Theater Direct, thank you for choosing HTD!
HTD-R3S Specifications
Frequency Response
55 Hz to 20 kHz
Power Capacity
100 watts
Impedance 8
ohms
Sensitivity 90
dB
Woofer
8” polypropylene with butyl surround
Tweeter
1” center-mounted dome swivel
Dimensions
10 1/4" diameter x 4” depth
Weight 7
lbs
Design and specifications are subject to change without notice.
www.HomeTheaterDirect.com
Toll Free: 1-866-HTD-AUDIO (866-483-2834)
Toll Free: 1-866-HTD-AUDIO (866-483-2834)
Printed in China
© 2001 Home Theater Direct, Inc.