Vermont Casting 1450 Benutzerhandbuch

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Encore 1450 Non-Catalytic Woodburning Stove
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Creosote
Creosote is a by-product of slow wood-burning. It is an 
organic tar that can condense in the flue if the exhaust 
gases cool too much. Condensed creosote is volatile, 
and can fuel chimney fires if it gets hot enough. All the 
factors that affect chimney draft also affect creosote 
condensation - so use installation features and opera-
tional steps that encourage good draft and minimize 
creosote production.
Because letting the smoke cool off and slow down is 
one of the keys to creosote production, it makes sense 
to line a chimney to match the stove’s outlet size, for 
safety reasons as well as performance. Canadian law 
requires a matching liner to serve any stove or insert 
vented through a fireplace chimney; in the US, the Na-
tional Fire Protection Association recommends a liner if 
the chimney is more than three times bigger (in square 
area) than the outlet on the stove or insert. Some locali-
ties enforce the NFPA guidelines as part of their build-
ing codes.
Fuel
Even the best stove installation will not perform well 
with poor fuel. The best fuel is hardwood that has air-
dried 12-18 months and is stored, covered from the 
elements. Softwoods burn well, but not as long as hard-
wood. ‘Green’ wood has more moisture in it; it will burn, 
but more of the heat from the fire is needed to drive the 
extra moisture off the wood. This reduces the amount 
of heat that reaches your home and can contribute to a 
creosote problem. There are moisture meters available 
for firewood; you can also judge your wood by its ap-
pearance and weight. If you get it green, lift a piece and 
get a sense of its weight; it can lose a third or more of 
its weight as it dries. Also look at the ends of a log; as it 
dries it shrinks and often cracks. The more weathered 
and cracked a piece is, the drier it is.       
Back-puffing
“Back-puffing” results when the fire produces volatile 
gases faster than the chimney draft pulls them out of 
the firebox. The gases back up in the firebox until they 
are dense enough and hot enough to ignite. If your 
stove back-puffs, you should open the damper to direct 
more heat up the chimney to allow the smoke to rise 
to the flue more quickly, let more air into the firebox. 
Smaller loads of wood, larger pieces of wood and 
avoiding overly dry wood loaded into a very hot stove 
may help this problem. If back-puffing persists, contact 
your dealer or qualified chimney sweep to help diag-
nose the problem. 
Draft Testing
An easy way to test your chimney draft is to close the 
stove’s damper, wait a few minutes to let the airflow 
stabilize, then see whether you can vary the strength 
of the fire by swinging the air control open and closed. 
Results are not always instant; you may need to wait 
a few minutes for a change in the air control setting to 
have an effect on the fire. If there’s no change, then the 
draft isn’t strong enough yet to let you close the damper, 
and you’ll need to open it for a while longer and manage 
the fire with the air inlet until the draft strengthens. 
Test chimney draft with a draft gauge.
Negative Pressure
Good draft also depends on a supply of air to the stove; 
a chimney can’t pull in more air than is available to it. 
Sluggish draft results when a house is tight enough to 
prevent the ready flow of air to the stove, or by com-
petition between the stove and other equipment that 
removes air from the house - especially power-driven 
equipment like range hoods, clothes dryers, etc. If the 
chimney draws well with all other equipment turned 
off (or sealed, in the case of fireplaces and/or other 
stoves), then you simply need to be careful with timing 
the use of the other equipment. If you need to crack a 
nearby window or door to enable the chimney to pull 
well, that’s a sign that you should install an outside-air 
intake to bring combustion air directly to the stove. For 
most of our stoves, adapters are available to connect 
an air duct for outdoor combustion air.
Conclusion
Wood-burning is an art rather than a science. Once the 
stove and chimney system are in place, you can only 
vary your technique, mostly your timing, to achieve 
good results. If you keep track of your burning habits 
and relate them to their effects on the stove’s operation, 
you’ll be rewarded with good performance and a safe 
system.