American Water Heater HPE10280H045DV Benutzerhandbuch

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When dissimilar metals are in contact with water, a 
galvanic cell will likely result and corrosion of the metal 
components will occur. If left unchecked, corrosion 
will weaken the wall of a water heater tank which will 
eventually leak. Passive anodes are typically used to 
counteract this corrosion and extend tank life. Passive 
anodes erode over time and become less effective 
until they stop working all together, another type of 
protective device is a powered anode. 

A powered anode is an active device that counteracts 
galvanic corrosion in the water heater tank. Unlike 
a standard depleting anode, a powered anode does 
not lose effectiveness over time. The powered anode 
circuit is made up of an electronic control, a titanium 
anode rod, and the water heater tank. The electronic 
control monitors conditions in the tank and produces 
a voltage that will prevent galvanic corrosion from 
occuring. The titanium anode rod consists of two 
functional parts: A steel body which threads into the 
tank providing mechanical and electrical connection to 
the tank and a titanium rod that is electrically insulated 
from the body. The voltage produced by the powered 
anode circuit  is delivered to the titanium anode rod by 
a red wire connected to the tab that connects to the 
anode rod. Current fl ows from the titanium anode rod, 
through the water and to the grounded tank wall. The 
powered anode circuitry will maintain the minimum 
voltage required to protect the tank steel.

Fault detection is built into the powered anode 
software. If a fault is detected, an error message will 
be displayed on the User Interface Module (UIM): 
“Powered Anode Fault”. By checking the fault code 
history see “Interpreting the Fault Code History” (p.21), 
a specifi c fault code can be read to aid in isolating the 
cause. Refer to the Fault Code Troubleshooting guide 
for the list of powered anode fault messages, what the 
messages indicate, possible causes, and corrective 
actions.
IMPORTANT: The anode protecting the tank requires 
power to the unit to operate. Do not shut off power to 
the unit for an extended period of time. If power must 
be turned off, drain the tank completely to minimize 
corrosion.

1.  Press the power button on the UIM to place the water 

heater in Standby Mode.
Note: Power to the board is still present at this time.

2.  Terminate all power to the unit at the breaker/fuse 

panel.

3.  Open a nearby hot water faucet and allow to run until 

the water is no longer hot.

4.  De-pressurize the water heater by closing the cold 

water supply valve to the water heater and opening a 
nearby hot water faucet.

5.  The powered anode is located on the left side of 

the heat pump compartment and is between the 
compressor and the evaporator.

6.  Remove the top housing see “Removing the Top 

Housing” below to gain access to the powered anode.

7.  Un-plug the red wire from the powered anode.
8.  Use a 1-1/16 inch deep well socket with extension 

and long breaker bar to loosen and remove the 
powered anode.

1.  Apply a small amount of thread sealant to the threads 

of the replacement anode. Do not get thread sealant 
on anode.

2.  Thread the anode into the spud and torque to 50 lb-ft.
3.  Connect the red wire to the tab on the powered 

anode.

4. Re-fi ll the tank with water.
5.  Apply power to the water heater and press the power 

button if needed to turn it on.

6.  Wait eight (8) minutes for the dry fi re detection to run 

and for water heating to begin.

7.  Monitor the UIM to see if the powered anode fault 

repeats. It may take up to 70 minutes for a powered 
anode fault to appear. 

1.  Press the power button on the User Interface Module 

(UIM) to place the water heater in standby mode.
Note: Power to the board is still present at this time.

2.  Terminate all power to the unit at the breaker/fuse 

panel.

3.  Using a #2 Phillips head screwdriver, remove the eight 

(8) screws attaching the left louvered panel to the top 
of the unit and set aside.

4.  Using a #2 Phillips screwdriver, remove the two (2) 

screws from the control board cover located inside the 
top of the unit on the right side, then remove the cover 
by lifting up and out.

5.  Locate the ribbon cable and disconnect from either 

CN211 or CN215. Thread the connector through the 
plastic grommet on the bottom left side of the control 
box.

6.  Remove the seven (7) screws attaching the shroud 

to the top of the unit and carefully lift the top up and 

away from the unit.