Niles Audio CM730 Benutzerhandbuch

Thank you for choosing a CM710, CM730, CM750 or CM760 loudspeaker from Niles. With proper installation and operation, you will enjoy 
years of trouble-free use. Niles manufactures the industry’s most complete line of custom installation components and accessories for 
audio/video systems. To see the complete Niles product assortment, visit us on the Internet at: 

www.nilesaudio.com

One pair of CM710, CM730, CM750 or CM760 loudspeakers; 1 pair of Aluminum MicroPerf

®

 Grilles and 1 pair of cardboard paint mask/

hole cutout templates.

We recommend using the following tools and material to install your Niles CM loudspeaker:

Before starting the installation, please observe the following precautions:

RUNNING WIRES IN WALLS OR CEILINGS

When running loudspeaker wire inside walls or ceilings, use special jacketed cable (a minimum of 18 to 16-gauge two-conductor CL-2 
or CL-3 rated loudspeaker wire) to protect the wire and for fire prevention. In some areas, conduit is also required. For a trouble-free 
installation, low-voltage wire such as loudspeaker wire must be run in accordance with the National Electrical Code and any applicable 
provisions of the local building code. If you are unsure of the correct installation techniques, wire jacket, or type of conduit to use, consult a 
professional audio/video installer, building contractor, or the local building and inspection department.

The CM700 series loudspeakers are designed to be installed in any standard ceiling. There are two considerations for placing the 
loudspeaker; ease of running the cable to the loudspeaker and coverage of the loudspeaker. The best stereo effect will be achieved if both 
the loudspeakers are at equal distance from the listener and closer together than the listener is from the loudspeakers. Avoid installing the 
loudspeakers near corners to prevent a “boomy” or diffracted sound. The CM700 series loudspeakers will cover an area of a circle with a 
16-foot diameter when mounted at an 8-foot height. (See 

Figure 1)

IMPORTANT: BEFORE YOU CUT INTO ANY WALL, REVIEW THE PRIOR SECTION ON LOUDSPEAKER PLACEMENT WHEN SELECTING THE 
LOCATION FOR YOUR LOUDSPEAKERS.

1.  When determining the location of the loudspeaker cutout, keep in mind that the mounting dogs will extend 3/4” beyond the cutout. 

Make sure that you do not place the edge of the cutout directly next to a ceiling joist. Locate the joists using a stud sensor or by hand 
knocking. Use the supplied cutout template (remove the largest perforated circle and use cardboard square with hole as the template) to 
determine how large of a hole you will need to cut. These templates are packed with your loudspeakers between the styrofoam packing 
and the ends of the box.

2.  Once you have determined a possible position for the cutout, drill a 1/8” pilot hole just barely through the ceiling (1/2” to 5/8” deep in 

most homes) in the center of your proposed loudspeaker location. 

BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO DRILL THROUGH EXISTING WIRES, PIPES, OR STRUCTURE. IF YOU FEEL ANY EXTRA RESISTANCE AS YOU 
ARE DRILLING, STOP.

3.  Cut a foot-long piece of coat hanger. Bend the wire (creating a right angle) leaving 5-1/2” at one end (this allows for the extra width of 

the mounting dogs). Poke the “L-shaped” wire into the pilot hole and turn it in a complete circle and move it into the ceiling cavity to 
make sure you have approximately 4-3/8” of depth. If the wire’s movement is obstructed by anything, fill the hole(s) with spackle and try 
another location. 

4.  If the coat hanger moves freely in a complete circle and you have sufficient depth, hold the template up to the ceiling surface. The 

cardboard square with the circular hole is the template. The inner perforated circle within the larger circle that was removed in step 1 
earlier is the paint mask. Keep it for painting the loudspeaker later. Outline the circular cutout on the ceiling surface lightly with a pencil. 
Drill the starting point of your cut with a 1/4” bit.

5.  If you are cutting drywall use a sheetrock or keyhole saw, cut the hole with the saw at a 45° angle. That way the drywall section can be 

replaced cleanly if there is an unseen obstruction behind the wall.

IMPORTANT: BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO SAW THROUGH EXISTING WIRES, PIPES, OR STRUCTURE.

IF YOU FEEL EXTRA RESISTANCE AS YOU ARE CUTTING, STOP.

INSULATING THE WALL CAVITY

If feasible, fill the wall cavity with insulation at this point.

MOUNTING THE NEW CONSTRUCTION BRACKET

The optional CM700 BKT can be used with the CM710, CM730, CM750 or CM760 loudspeakers. The hole saving bracket enables a 
faster and cleaner final installation of the loudspeaker. It forces the drywall installer to cut out the loudspeaker hole for you and provides 
wire ties for the loudspeaker wire, reducing the risks of accidental loss or movement of the wire. In addition, it enables you to align your 
loudspeakers with other ceiling fixtures with great accuracy since you can really see exactly where the loudspeaker will be. To install the 
bracket, first pivot the long wing out until it stops, which will be in straight line with the short wing. The wings and brackets have centering 
lines to simplify placement of the loudspeakers. Screw one side of the assembled bracket with wings to the joist using one of the supplied 
screws. Level the bracket. Screw the other side of the bracket/wing assembly to the joist. Two screws on each side make for a very secure 
installation. Secure the wire to the bracket using bracket’s wire tie tab. The drywall installers will cut the drywall to the exact size of the 
bracket. (See 

Figure 2)

CONCEALING LOUDSPEAKER WIRE FOR A FUTURE INSTALLATION

Attach the loudspeaker wire in a loop between the ceiling joists and carefully mark the exact location of the wire on a set of plans. Ask the 
general contractor to inform the drywall installers that the loudspeaker wire loops are concealed for future installations.

1.  Remove the top piece of stryofoam from the box. You will find two loudspeakers bagged in a lower portion of packing. Remove the 

loudspeaker from the bag. The metal grille is installed on the loudspeaker and will need to be removed. This is easily done by rotating 
the mounting ‘dogs’ out with your fingers and pulling them towards the front of the loudspeaker. This will push the screw heads against 
the inside of the grille to work it out of the baffle. (See 

Figure 3)

2.  At each loudspeaker location, route the wire to the input connectors, then separate the loudspeaker wire so that at least 2 inches of each 

conductor are free. Strip away 1/4 inch of insulation from each individual loudspeaker wire.

3.  Press down each spring-loaded connector one at a time, insert the appropriate conductor and then release the connector. Check to be 

sure that the connector is making contact with stripped wire and not the wire jacket. Gently tug on the loudspeaker wire to make sure it 
is held in place. If not, repeat this procedure until it is. 

IMPORTANT: OBSERVE CORRECT POLARITY: POSITIVE (+) GOES TO THE RED POST AND NEGATIVE (–) GOES TO THE BLACK POST.

4.  Rotate dogs back to their original positions so that they do not protrude out from the diameter of the loudspeaker.

5.  Insert the loudspeaker into the hole by carefully holding it with both hands and angling it slowly into the hole until the frame is flush with 

the ceiling. Holding it in place carefully with one hand, (do not push against the woofer or tweeter) use a cordless drill to begin mounting 
the loudspeaker. 

6.  Tighten the four screws using a #2 Phillips bit. Use low torque and low speed or you may damage the loudspeaker. This should pull the 

frame and mounting dog together (sandwiching the drywall) so that the frame is absolutely flush with the wall surface. There should be 
no gaps between the wall and the frame. 

IMPORTANT: DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE SCREWS! OVER TIGHTENING THEM MAY MAKE THE GRILLE DIFFICULT TO INSTALL

7.  Direct the tweeter. (CM730, CM750 & CM760 only) The tweeter is directed by gently pressing on the outer edge of the tweeter housing. 

It will move up to 20 degrees in any direction. For critical listening, direct the tweeter towards the user’s favorite listening position. For 
surround sound or low volume background listening, create more reflections and thus more ambiance by directing the tweeter towards 
the sidewalls. (See 

Figure 4)

8.  Set the Treble level control. (CM760 only) Listen to a well-recorded piece of music at the user’s favorite listening position. Listen for 

treble harshness or ringing, particularly when the loudspeakers are placed in a room without carpet. Use the -3dB Treble cut position 
to correct. Listen for dull or muffled upper frequencies, particularly when the loudspeakers are installed in an area with thick carpet or 
fabric wall coverings. Use the +3dB Treble boost position to correct. (See

 Figure 5)

9.  Install the MicroPerf™ grille. Start by positioning one edge of the grille slightly inside the loudspeaker. Gently work around the 

loudspeaker a little at a time until the grille is fully seated. Don’t try to insert the grille fully in any one area, as this will make complete 
installation more difficult. Don’t force the grille to fit as you may damage the grille if you apply too much force.

10.  Connect the other end of each loudspeaker wire to the receiver (or amplifier) carefully observing polarity.

11. Turn on the receiver or amplifier and test all loudspeakers in the system.

Each CM710, CM730, CM750 & CM760 loudspeaker and flush-mount metal grille may be painted without the need for primer.

1. Install loudspeaker into ceiling or wall following the previous steps 1 - 7.

2.  Remove the smallest perforated circle from the cardboard square template. This is the paint mask that protects the loudspeaker from 

paint. Gently press it into place inside the baffle.

3. Paint the frame of the loudspeaker.

4.  Paint the grille separately from the loudspeaker frame. For best results when painting the grille, use a spray gun or airless sprayer. Thin 

the paint to prevent clogging of the grille holes and apply several light coats instead of one heavy one.

5.  Gently remove the paint mask after paint has dried by pressing in the tab in the center and carefully pulling out the mask with your 

finger. Be very careful not to poke the tweeter with your finger.

6. Finish installation of the loudspeaker following the previous steps 8 –10.

Figure 2. New construction bracket.

Figure 4. Tweeter adjustment.

Figure 5. Treble Level Control.

Figure 1. Typical placement for stereo listening.

Figure 3. Mounting “dog” rotation.

•  Cordless drill with 1/4 – and 1/2-

inch drill bits and a 1-inch paddle 

drill bit (for drilling through studs) 

•  Stiff wire, fish tape or glow rods 

for routing cables 

•  Rubber gloves and protective 

eyewear

• Keyhole or drywall saw 

• Phillips screwdriver set 

• Wire stripper 

• Stud finder 

• Cable ties 

• Pencil

•  Turn off all system power before 

making any connections 

•  Always wear protective eyewear 

when using tools 

•  Make sure hands are clean before 

installation 

•  Wear gloves when working with 

fiberglass insulation