NEC LCD1990SXi Reference Guide

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After setting the PC to the baseline, the next order of business is to make the room the right ambient
light condition for working on color images.  This is quite subjective, but one must keep in mind a
couple of facts.  If there is a window in the room, the ambient light will be changing all during the day.
Morning light will cause a reddish hue, and mid afternoon lighting will cause a yellow cast.  If blinds
are used, be sure to use blinds that block light as opposed to filtering it through another color.
Also consider the room color.  If the room is painted in the standard eggshell or off-white, reflected
light from the walls and ceiling will cast a yellowish tint to your printed output.  A room painted white
would be better for proofing the hard copy.  Then there is the issue of lighting.  Incandescent light
bulbs will cast a yellow to orange hue, and halogens a blue hue.  Fluorescent lighting is closer to white
when diffused.  With fluorescent lighting, one may experience a "flicker" effect on the monitor due to
a low refresh rate.  Again, keep in mind that the majority of this is subjective since the measuring
device is the human eye.
If we were to use a calibration cup (which will be discussed later), the cup uses a suction to attach to
the monitor to block out all ambient light.  Using that logic, the best room for viewing monitor editing
is a room painted black with no windows or lights, and the best room for checking your proofs is a
white room with many fluorescent lights and no windows.  Our personal preference is to set the room
with no windows, or heavy blinds or shades, paint the room flat white, and incorporate fluorescent
lighting.  Then turn the lights out for working on the PC, and turn them on for checking the proof.
Now we have the PC set to the baseline hardware and software configuration, and we also have the
room setup.  Next is configuring hardware to hardware.
First, consider your printer (or your service bureau) output to be the standard that you are trying to
match.  Print a test page you are happy with, and adjust your printer first to get the right balance of
color and contrast.  Then work on matching the software, monitor and video card to that output.
There are several ways to accomplish this.
The video card and monitor combination are mentioned as a system, because they work in conjunction
with each other more closely than they do with the printer. They also are more adjustable and
configurable than the current printers.
Find a video card and monitor that function well together.  For image editing and DTP, currently the
trend is toward 1024 x 768 resolutions, and to a lesser but growing degree toward 1280 x 1024
resolutions.  To avoid flicker from other electrical appliances and fluorescent lighting request a refresh
rate of 70Hz (Hertz) or better.  The reason for this is that the fluorescent lights are "flickering" on and
off at 60Hz or 60 times a second.  If the monitor uses a 60Hz refresh rate, that means that the
phosphors are being excited from top to bottom 60 times a second as well.  The phosphors at the top
of the screen start to fade slightly before the electron gun gets back to the top to re-excite them.  If the
monitor is "flickering" and lights are "flickering" a strobing effect takes place that is quite annoying.
There are video cards available now that are programmable.  Companies like NUMBER9, Hercules
and Matrox offer video cards that have timings for popular monitors programmed in, but are also
capable of being "tweaked" to get the most out of the monitor/card combination.