hayes-disc-brakes 45-17692ecfull User Manual
4. Begin reassembly by dropping the spring and master cylinder assembly into the lever body.
5. Place a small amount of the yellow Versilube onto the ball end of the pushrod.
6. Install the ball end of the threaded push rod into the master cylinder piston. Push on the threaded push rod to assure that all parts are properly in place.
7. Place the retaining washer over the threaded end of the push rod.
8. Using a snap ring tool, install the snap ring into the snap ring groove on the inside of the master cylinder body. Push on the threaded push rod to assure that all parts are properly
5. Place a small amount of the yellow Versilube onto the ball end of the pushrod.
6. Install the ball end of the threaded push rod into the master cylinder piston. Push on the threaded push rod to assure that all parts are properly in place.
7. Place the retaining washer over the threaded end of the push rod.
8. Using a snap ring tool, install the snap ring into the snap ring groove on the inside of the master cylinder body. Push on the threaded push rod to assure that all parts are properly
in place.
9. Install Lever Blade (Note: see instructions)
10.Put the completed master cylinder back onto the handlebars.
10.Put the completed master cylinder back onto the handlebars.
11.Bleed the system.
•••••
Master Cylinder Reservoir Cap and Bladder Service
(Figure 5)
Note: The reservoir is located in the clamp of the master cylinder body. You will need to remove the master cylinder assembly from the handlebar to perform the below service.
Note: When you remove the bladder assembly from the master cylinder body, there is no need to remove the hose from the end of the master cylinder.
1. Remove the Master Cylinder from the handlebar.
2. Remove the reservoir cap by removing the two T-10 Torx screws holding the reservoir cap onto the body.
3. Using a needle nose pliers, Carefully remove the bladder from inside the master cylinder body. Caution: If you pull too hard on the bladder, you may tear it.
4. Clean and inspect the area of bladder and cap assembly. Replace those parts that are damaged with new service parts. Thoroughly clean all parts by spraying them with isopropyl
Note: When you remove the bladder assembly from the master cylinder body, there is no need to remove the hose from the end of the master cylinder.
1. Remove the Master Cylinder from the handlebar.
2. Remove the reservoir cap by removing the two T-10 Torx screws holding the reservoir cap onto the body.
3. Using a needle nose pliers, Carefully remove the bladder from inside the master cylinder body. Caution: If you pull too hard on the bladder, you may tear it.
4. Clean and inspect the area of bladder and cap assembly. Replace those parts that are damaged with new service parts. Thoroughly clean all parts by spraying them with isopropyl
alcohol and wiping with a clean rag.
5. Place the bladder into the master cylinder body. Be sure that it is seated properly.
6. Install reservoir cap and secure with the two T-10 Torx bolts. (Torque to 2.5 +/- .5 in.-lb. (.28 +/- .05 Nm)
7. Install master cylinder assembly back on to the handle bar.
8. Bleed the System.
6. Install reservoir cap and secure with the two T-10 Torx bolts. (Torque to 2.5 +/- .5 in.-lb. (.28 +/- .05 Nm)
7. Install master cylinder assembly back on to the handle bar.
8. Bleed the System.
D. Caliper Service
(Figure 5)
To repair the caliper, it must be removed from the bike and disassembled.
•
Piston Removal
1. Remove the caliper from the bike by removing the two mount bolts.
2. Remove the brake pads.
3. Completely remove the caliper hose assembly.
4. Using the Hayes Caliper Plug Tool, remove the outer caliper plug. (Figure 5)
5. Completely remove the outer caliper piston by pushing it towards the center of the caliper.
6. Remove the inner caliper piston with compressed air.
Warning: Wear safety glasses.
Caution: Do not grab hold of the piston post with pliers. This can destroy the piston.
2. Remove the brake pads.
3. Completely remove the caliper hose assembly.
4. Using the Hayes Caliper Plug Tool, remove the outer caliper plug. (Figure 5)
5. Completely remove the outer caliper piston by pushing it towards the center of the caliper.
6. Remove the inner caliper piston with compressed air.
Warning: Wear safety glasses.
Caution: Do not grab hold of the piston post with pliers. This can destroy the piston.
7
. Temporarily block off the fluid port inside the outer caliper half, angle the caliper so the piston is facing downward, then direct pressurized air thru the banjo hole that the hose
connects to. This will force the piston out of the caliper.
8. Carefully remove both square seals from inside the caliper. Caution: Do no scratch the groove in the caliper. This can cause leakage. Use a sharpened wood or plastic stick.
9. Clean all of the parts. Then rinse each part with isopropyl alcohol. Be sure to clean the caliper through all the holes.
9. Clean all of the parts. Then rinse each part with isopropyl alcohol. Be sure to clean the caliper through all the holes.
•
Piston Assembly
1. Begin re-assembly of the caliper by lightly lubricating the new square seals with DOT 4 or DOT 3 brake fluid.
2. Install the two square seals by carefully pushing the seal into each of its seal groove – making sure that the seal is worked into the groove all the way around the seal groove.
3. Install a new seal around the caliper plug. Note: It is important to use a new seal on the caliper plug each time you remove the plug. A new seal is included in the piston kit.
4. Using the Hayes Caliper Plug tool, install the outer caliper plug. Tighten to 240 +/- 12 in.-lb. (27.1 =/- 1.4 Nm)
5. Install the inner piston by sliding it through the center of the caliper and pushing it into the caliper bore with the use of a 9mm box wrench.
6. Repeat the previous step for the outer piston.
7. Clean the caliper of any excess brake fluid by spraying it with isopropyl alcohol and wiping it down with a clean cloth.
Note: Bleeders do not have to be replaced every time the caliper is rebuilt. If it is necessary to replace the bleeder, it is available as a service kit. The thread sealant on the
bleeder is there only to seal during the bleeding process. If it wears off, replace it with a wrap of Teflon tape thread sealant.
2. Install the two square seals by carefully pushing the seal into each of its seal groove – making sure that the seal is worked into the groove all the way around the seal groove.
3. Install a new seal around the caliper plug. Note: It is important to use a new seal on the caliper plug each time you remove the plug. A new seal is included in the piston kit.
4. Using the Hayes Caliper Plug tool, install the outer caliper plug. Tighten to 240 +/- 12 in.-lb. (27.1 =/- 1.4 Nm)
5. Install the inner piston by sliding it through the center of the caliper and pushing it into the caliper bore with the use of a 9mm box wrench.
6. Repeat the previous step for the outer piston.
7. Clean the caliper of any excess brake fluid by spraying it with isopropyl alcohol and wiping it down with a clean cloth.
Note: Bleeders do not have to be replaced every time the caliper is rebuilt. If it is necessary to replace the bleeder, it is available as a service kit. The thread sealant on the
bleeder is there only to seal during the bleeding process. If it wears off, replace it with a wrap of Teflon tape thread sealant.
8. Ensure all parts of the hose connections are clean and free of any hair, dirt, etc., and that the 0-rings are not torn or chipped
.
9. Install the hose connection back onto the caliper in the original position.
10.Reattach the caliper to the frame or fork and bleed the system.
10.Reattach the caliper to the frame or fork and bleed the system.
M
AINTENANCE
A. Brake Pad Change
Due to wear, contamination, or damage, the brake pads will, on occasion have to be replaced. The following procedure is to be followed for that change of brake pads.
(Note: The pads on the El Camino are removed and installed from the top of the caliper) (Figure 3)
1.Remove the wheel.
2. Using the tab on the pad backing plate, pull the pad toward the center of the caliper and out. There is a spring that holds them in place. That spring snaps on to the post at the
(Note: The pads on the El Camino are removed and installed from the top of the caliper) (Figure 3)
1.Remove the wheel.
2. Using the tab on the pad backing plate, pull the pad toward the center of the caliper and out. There is a spring that holds them in place. That spring snaps on to the post at the
center of the piston.
3. Repeat the steps for the other pad.
4. Using the box end of a 9 mm wrench, push the caliper pistons back until they bottom. This will give you more room to fit in the new pads. Take care not to push on the
4. Using the box end of a 9 mm wrench, push the caliper pistons back until they bottom. This will give you more room to fit in the new pads. Take care not to push on the
aluminum post in the center of the piston
Caution: Don’t push on the post in the center of the piston because that will bend the post. Walk the piston back and forth until the piston is all the way back in the bore. Do the
same thing on the other side.
Note: There are two different brake pads, an inner and outer. The pads are labeled “inner” or “outer” on the back of the pad.
5. When installing the pads, use the tab on the pad backing plate to push the new pads into place. Angle the pad slightly so the post is towards the center of the caliper and
same thing on the other side.
Note: There are two different brake pads, an inner and outer. The pads are labeled “inner” or “outer” on the back of the pad.
5. When installing the pads, use the tab on the pad backing plate to push the new pads into place. Angle the pad slightly so the post is towards the center of the caliper and
push the pad until it snaps into place. Check that the pad is locked into position.
6. Now repeat the procedure for the other pad.
7. Install the wheel.
7. Install the wheel.
B. Piston(s) Pumped Out
(Figure 3)
If the brake lever is stroked without the disc between the pads (and this is possible when brake pads are being changed), the self-adjusting feature will allow the pads to push out. The
caliper pistons will be pumped out of their bore. This would cause excessive drag on the disc when the wheel and disc are reinstalled, or even make it impossible to install the wheel and
dsic.
To fix this problem…
caliper pistons will be pumped out of their bore. This would cause excessive drag on the disc when the wheel and disc are reinstalled, or even make it impossible to install the wheel and
dsic.
To fix this problem…
1. Remove the brake pads from the caliper if they are not already removed.
HINT: If the pads are pushed together tight, slide the Hayes travel spacer between the pads and enlarge the gap until it is larger enough to pull the pads out
2. With the pads removed, push the pistons all the way back into the caliper using the box end of a 9mm end wrench. Caution: Don’t push on the post in the center of the piston because
HINT: If the pads are pushed together tight, slide the Hayes travel spacer between the pads and enlarge the gap until it is larger enough to pull the pads out
2. With the pads removed, push the pistons all the way back into the caliper using the box end of a 9mm end wrench. Caution: Don’t push on the post in the center of the piston because
that will bend the post. Walk the piston back and forth until the piston is all the way back in the bore. Do the same thing on the other side.
3. When the pistons are back into their Bores, replace the pads – putting them in at a slight angle so that the spring catches the post on the piston.
C. Cleaning and Care
The brake disc and pads should only be cleaned with isopropyl alcohol (not disc brake cleaner).