Eko Brands Bicycle XC0.8 User Manual
Basic Fork Reassembly
1. To re-attach the fork lowers, first push the lower damper shaft upward so that the hex key on the cap can be inserted into the
top damper shaft. Screw down the cap and re-attach the lockout knob by carefully fitting it on the top hex fitting of the key in
the cap and replacing the small screw in the center of the knob. Move the knob to the “7 o’clock” or “locked out “ position
and HOLD IT THERE. Pull the lower damper shaft downward as far as it will go and turn it clockwise, still holding the knob
in the ”locked out” position, until the shaft will not turn. The lock out is now engaged.
the cap and replacing the small screw in the center of the knob. Move the knob to the “7 o’clock” or “locked out “ position
and HOLD IT THERE. Pull the lower damper shaft downward as far as it will go and turn it clockwise, still holding the knob
in the ”locked out” position, until the shaft will not turn. The lock out is now engaged.
2. Make sure all the spacers and bottoming bumpers are installed on the control rods (see exploded views for proper installation).
With all parts cleaned and reinstalled with new grease, fit the lower assembly over the stanchion tubes and gently rock and
slide together until the control rods are touching the bottom of the lower assembly. Note: Do not tap the lower assembly
onto the stanchion tubes. The DU bushings can be dislodged. Thread the compression screws into the control rods starting
with the damper side and once again hold the lock out knob in the locked out position and firmly tighten. Adding air to the air
cartridge may be needed to push the control rod down to the bottom of the leg. This will also help hold the rod from spinning
as you tighten the compression screw on the air side. Note: Ensure the compression screws are fully tight before riding.
slide together until the control rods are touching the bottom of the lower assembly. Note: Do not tap the lower assembly
onto the stanchion tubes. The DU bushings can be dislodged. Thread the compression screws into the control rods starting
with the damper side and once again hold the lock out knob in the locked out position and firmly tighten. Adding air to the air
cartridge may be needed to push the control rod down to the bottom of the leg. This will also help hold the rod from spinning
as you tighten the compression screw on the air side. Note: Ensure the compression screws are fully tight before riding.
3. Make sure the fork caps and cartridges are fully tightened into the top of the stanchion tubes. Connect the front brake and
wheel as outlined in you bicycle owners manual.
4. Compress the fork to make sure it works smoothly and that the brake cable does not interfere with the operation of the fork.
Loss of Air Pressure (In Excess of Normal Seepage):
Deflate the cartridge and un-thread it from the left stanchion tube. Re-inflate the cartridge to 150 psi and immerse in water for
several minutes with the dust cap removed. Check for any slow bubbling.
1. Check the tightness of the air cap on the body. It should be a firm hand tight but not over tight.
2. Check the o-rings for damage, a fiber, hair or large dirt particle. Slow bubbling from inside or underneath the air cap usually
several minutes with the dust cap removed. Check for any slow bubbling.
1. Check the tightness of the air cap on the body. It should be a firm hand tight but not over tight.
2. Check the o-rings for damage, a fiber, hair or large dirt particle. Slow bubbling from inside or underneath the air cap usually
indicates a contaminated air cap o-ring. Remove suspect o-rings with a toothpick. If the o-ring is not cut or torn, cleaning and
re-greasing the o-ring usually repairs the leak.
re-greasing the o-ring usually repairs the leak.
3. Check the valve core for bubbles. Slow bubble formation at the top of the schreader valve (one bubble every 30-60 minutes) is
normal, more rapid bubbling indicates a loose or defective valve core. Tighten the valve core with a valve core wrench and see
if that stops the leak. If not replace the valve core.
if that stops the leak. If not replace the valve core.
4. If no leak can be seen after one minute of immersion, pressure loss probably occurs in use due to a worn or contaminated
cartridge body o-ring. To check, compress the cartridge body assembly underwater and look for bubbles that may occur at the
junction where the shaft enters the cartridge body. If leakage is visible, the body o-ring is easy to replace with a “Cartridge
Body Seal Kit” available through your local dealer or from White Brothers.
junction where the shaft enters the cartridge body. If leakage is visible, the body o-ring is easy to replace with a “Cartridge
Body Seal Kit” available through your local dealer or from White Brothers.
5. If none of these remedies solve the problem contact White Brothers for technical support.
TROUBLE SHOOTING
Fork Feels Sticky:
This is usually caused by:
1. A lack of lubrication. Clean and lubricate the fork as outlined in the maintenance section.
2. Contamination inside the fork. Clean and lubricate the fork as outlined in the maintenance section.
3. Fork is not sufficiently broken in. Contact White Brothers for further technical information.
1. A lack of lubrication. Clean and lubricate the fork as outlined in the maintenance section.
2. Contamination inside the fork. Clean and lubricate the fork as outlined in the maintenance section.
3. Fork is not sufficiently broken in. Contact White Brothers for further technical information.
The Fork Bottoms Too Easily:
1. Incorrect air pressure. Add air pressure as outlined in the tuning section.
2. Insufficient compression damping. Add compression damping by turning the adjuster on the top of the right leg clock-wise.
2. Insufficient compression damping. Add compression damping by turning the adjuster on the top of the right leg clock-wise.
The Fork Doesn’t Use Full Travel:
1. Incorrect air pressure. Remove air pressure as outlined in the tuning section.
2. Excessive compression damping. Reduce the compression damping by turning the adjuster on the top of the right leg counter
2. Excessive compression damping. Reduce the compression damping by turning the adjuster on the top of the right leg counter
clock-wise.
Lockout and/or Damping Adjustment is Not Working
1. Damper may need servicing. Contact White Brothers for technical information.
PAGE 6
7. Check the DU bushings carefully for wear. This is done by looking at the color of the bushings. If the bushings are dark gray,
they are in good condition. If they are bronze/gold in areas, they are worn and can cause fork stanchion damage. If there is
noticeable movement back and forth when the legs are fully engaged on the fork stanchions, the DU bushings may need to be
replaced. Please note that special tools are required to remove and replace these bushings. This service can be performed by
certified White Brothers MTB service centers or directly through White Brothers.
noticeable movement back and forth when the legs are fully engaged on the fork stanchions, the DU bushings may need to be
replaced. Please note that special tools are required to remove and replace these bushings. This service can be performed by
certified White Brothers MTB service centers or directly through White Brothers.
8. Next, inspect the fork stanchion tubes for wear, nicks or scrapes. These will cause premature wear on the seals and DU
bushings. Check again for noticeable play between the stanchion tubes and the fork lower.
9. If everything is free of problems, coat all parts with a light coat of Slick Honey or other non-lithium grease. Be sure to lube
the DU bushings located inside the lower leg.