blue-seal g1100 Manual De Usuario

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Revision 4/F3576 
© Moffat Ltd, December 2004 
6.1.3  FAN DOESN’T OPERATE 
Fan motor faulty 
Check the supply voltage across motor termi-
nals.  If there is no voltage then check the 
electrical connections of wiring. 
If voltage is correct then check the oven fan 
for free rotation.  Remove any obstruction. 
If fan is free to spin and the voltage at motor 
terminals is correct, then the motor is faulty—
replace. 
 
Fan switch faulty 
Check  that  the  thermostat  has  power  to  
terminal 5 on switch body on the front of the 
thermostat when power switch is ON.  If no 
voltage check wiring.  Check that terminal P5 
has power switched to it when the thermostat 
is turned on.  If no power to P5 then switch is 
faulty and thermostat complete with switch 
needs to be replaced. 
No power to thermostat 
Check   voltage   to   terminal   1   on   oven           
thermostat.  If there is no voltage then check 
voltage through terminal 2 and 3 on roast n 
hold switch.  If there is no voltage to terminal 
2 then check wiring.  If there is voltage to ter-
minal 2, but no voltage to terminal 3 (and the 
roast n hold switch is not turned on) then 
switch is faulty—replace. 
Thermostat faulty 
Set thermostat to 200°C.  Check the voltage 
out of terminal 2 on the thermostat.  If there is 
no  voltage  then  the  thermostat is  faulty—
replace. 
If the voltage is correct and the heating light is 
on then check all wiring to ignition box. 
Gas valve faulty 
In all cases it must first be established that the 
gas  supply  is  on,  and  that  the  supply  
pressure  is  correct  (refer  to  specifications  
section) 
If pressure is correct then with thermostat 
turned on check voltage at connections to the 
gas valve solenoid. 
If voltage is correct when thermostat is on, 
and gas valve is not opening, then the gas 
valve is faulty - replace. 
Check correct supply voltage on ignition box 
wires connecting to terminal 1 of the hold  
thermostat, and a control panel neutral wire.  
This confirms that the thermostat circuit is 
supplying the correct voltage to the ignition 
box  connection  wires.   To  confirm  actual  
voltage to ignition box, the 6-way connector 
on the ignition box requires removal to check 
actual voltage in ends of 6 way connector for 
these two wires. 
If voltage is ok, but no spark is generated, 
check that all wiring at ignition box has good 
connections. 
Ensure that the ignition box has earth/ground  
connection,  and  that  appliance  has  earth/
ground at supply, and supply is earthed. 
If  all  connections  are  ok,  and  no  ignition  
sequence operating, then ignition box is faulty 
- replace. 
If ignition box generates spark, but burner 
doesn’t ignite, or if burner ignites but doesn’t 
stay  alight,  firstly  check  correct  electrode  
assembly  operation.   Refer  fault  diagnosis 
6.1.2 - Burner Ignition Spark Not Working. 
If all checks are correct, but burner fails to 
stay alight then ignition box is faulty - replace. 
 
NOTE:  Correct flame sensing current can be 
checked by inserting a multi-meter capable of 
measuring micro-amps in series with flame 
rectification rod connection to ignition box.  
With power off, disconnect flame rectification 
rod connection to ignition box and connect 
multimeter  between  flame  rectification  rod 
lead and ignition box terminal.  Turn on power 
and thermostat.  With burner running a current 
of no less than that specified below should be 
read. 
  All Models 
1.0 micro Amps 
If no current reading, or less than specified, 
re-check electrode settings, gas pressure, gas 
type etc, and if still not correct, ignition box 
requires replacement. 
If  voltage  is  incorrect,  check  wiring  and  
connections  to  ignition  box  and  refer  to  
ignition box fault diagnosis.