American Aldes DHV-150H Manuel D’Utilisation

 

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6.  Turn on the fan switch; the fan should run. Turn 

off the fan switch. 

7.  Turn on the humidity control; the compressor and 

fan should run. 

8.  If these tests work, the problem is most likely in 

the field control wiring. 

 

 

 
If the refrigerant charge is lost due to service or a leak, 
a new charge must be accurately weighed in. If any of 
the old charge is left in the system, it must be 
recovered before weighing in the new charge. Refer to 
the unit nameplate for the correct charge weight and 
refrigerant type. 
 

 

 
The motorized impeller is a unitary assembly 
consisting of the motor and impeller. If defective, the 
complete assembly must be replaced. 
 

1.  Unplug the power cord. 
2.  Remove the cabinet access panel. 
3.  Remove the screw attaching the fan support 

bracket to the base. 

4.  Disconnect the fan leads inside the electric box. 
5.  Push up on the inlet ring and pull the fan and fan 

support bracket to the right, then up and out of 
the unit. 

6.  Remove the defective fan from the bracket and 

replace with new fan. 

7.  Reassemble the new fan by reversing the above 

procedure. 

 

Replacement 

 
This compressor is equipped with a two terminal 
external overload and a run capacitor, but no start 
capacitor or relay (See Figure 4). 
 
CAUTION-ELECTRICAL SHOCK HAZARD: Electrical 
power must be present to perform some tests. These 
tests should be performed by a qualified service 
person. 

 

 
Perform the following tests if the fan runs but the 
compressor does not with the fan switch and 
ventilation timer OFF and the humidity control ON. 
 
1.  Unplug the unit; remove the cabinet side and the 

electrical connection cover on the compressor top. 

 

2.  Plug in the unit and turn the humidity control to ON. 

Check for 110 volts from compressor terminal R to 
overload terminal 3 using an AC voltmeter. If 
voltage is present, go to step 3. If no voltage, there 
may be a loose connection in the compressor 
circuit. Test each component for continuity. See 
the appropriate section if a defect is suspected. 

 
3.  Unplug the unit, and then disconnect the red and 

yellow wires from compressor terminals R & S. 
Using an ohmmeter check continuity between the 
points listed below. 

 
4.  Compressor terminals C and S: 
 

No continuity indicates an open start winding. The 
compressor must be replaced. Normal start 
winding resistance is 3 to 7 ohms. 

 
5.  Compressor terminals C and R: 
 

No continuity indicates an open run winding. The 
compressor must be replaced. Normal run winding 
resistance is .5 to 2 ohms. 

 
6.  Compressor terminal C and overload terminal 1:  
 

No continuity indicates a defective overload lead. 

 
7.  Overload terminals 1 and 3: 
 

If there is no continuity, the overload may be 
tripped. Wait 10 minutes and try again. If there is 
still no continuity, it is defective and must be 
replaced. 

 
8.  Compressor terminal C and compressor case: 

Continuity indicates a grounded motor. The 
compressor must be replaced. 

 
9.  Disconnect the wires from the run capacitor. Set the 

ohmmeter to the Rx1 scale. The capacitor is shorted 
and must be replaced if continuity exists across its 
terminals. If there is no needle movement with the 
meter set on the Rx100000 scale, the capacitor is 
open and must be replaced. 

 
10.  Reconnect the wires to the compressor and 

capacitor. Plug in and turn on the unit. If the 
compressor fails to start, replace the run capacitor. 

 
11.  If the unit still does not start, adding a hard-start kit 

(relay & capacitor) will provide greater starting 
torque. If this doesn't work, the compressor has an 
internal mechanical defect and must be replaced. 

 

The refrigerant and oil mixture in a compressor is 
chemically very stable under normal operating 
conditions. However, when an electrical short occurs