Select Increments Intra-Pod オーナーマニュアル
TIPS & F.A.Q.
1) The threaded holes in the amplifier cavity and under the speaker are used in the molding process and mean nothing for your install.
2)
2)
Armor-All® or equivalent will shine and protect the plastic of your Intra-Pod.
3)
Follow your Kicker® manuals for proper wiring of the amplifier, subwoofer, and remote bass level controller.
Note: RUN RCA’s FROM THE HEAD UNIT TO THE
AMPLIFIER AWAY FROM YOUR AMP’s
POWER AND REMOTE WIRES, TO
REMOVE INTERFERENCE (i.e. noise
or ‘hum’ coming through speakers.) BRING THE
REMOTE AND POWER WIRE IN THROUGH A
SEPARATE VENT.
REMOVE INTERFERENCE (i.e. noise
or ‘hum’ coming through speakers.) BRING THE
REMOTE AND POWER WIRE IN THROUGH A
SEPARATE VENT.
4) The best place to run the amplifier power wire through the firewall and to your Jeep’s battery is on the bottom
right-hand corner of the firewall on the passenger’s side, just above where the floor slopes upward and
meets the firewall. You’ll see a little metal area that’s exposed, that’s where you want to drill a
hole to run the amplifier power wire through. Mount the power wire’s fuse block in the engine compartment,
above your battery. Drill two pilot holes in the firewall and run two screws through the fuse block and
into the firewall.
meets the firewall. You’ll see a little metal area that’s exposed, that’s where you want to drill a
hole to run the amplifier power wire through. Mount the power wire’s fuse block in the engine compartment,
above your battery. Drill two pilot holes in the firewall and run two screws through the fuse block and
into the firewall.
5) The ground wire for the amplifier should be as short as possible. For best results, mount it by way of
a ring terminal to one of the seat bolts that mount the seats to the floor. Large ring terminals such as this
can be purchased at your local car audio or auto parts store. Or you can use the smaller ring terminal that comes
with the amplifier wiring kit and drill a smaller hole, use a smaller screw and run it into the floor of the vehicle.
Either way, make sure the terminal is sitting on bare metal, so remove a little paint if necessary. FOLLOWING THIS
can be purchased at your local car audio or auto parts store. Or you can use the smaller ring terminal that comes
with the amplifier wiring kit and drill a smaller hole, use a smaller screw and run it into the floor of the vehicle.
Either way, make sure the terminal is sitting on bare metal, so remove a little paint if necessary. FOLLOWING THIS
METHOD WILL ENSURE A GREAT GROUND! We also recommend that you ground your radio at the
same place as the amplifier. This can be accomplished by cutting the ground wire at the back of the radio and
attaching it to a new wire, which is run from your radio to the amplifier’s ground location. This method will
reduce all ground loops between your radio and amplifier, reducing the risk of alternator ‘whine’.
same place as the amplifier. This can be accomplished by cutting the ground wire at the back of the radio and
attaching it to a new wire, which is run from your radio to the amplifier’s ground location. This method will
reduce all ground loops between your radio and amplifier, reducing the risk of alternator ‘whine’.
6) Don’t go nuts fastening the Intra-Pod to the floor, just enough to hold it securely without splitting the two
tabs up front. The third and final screw is mounted through the base of the Intra-Pod and into the floor, behind
the speaker; this one can go in tighter since it won’t split the plastic.
the speaker; this one can go in tighter since it won’t split the plastic.
7) Use solder for wire connections, if possible.
8) Make sure to seal any extra space around the speaker wires where they go through the grommet hole of the Intra-Pod
8) Make sure to seal any extra space around the speaker wires where they go through the grommet hole of the Intra-Pod
with a glue gun, wax, etc. so no air escapes and the internal space is completely sealed. If air can escape there it can result
in a vibration noise or whistling noise.
Please note: If you purchased the Intra-Pod with audio components included: Note that the Kicker amplifier is a mono amp and is
capable of running in 2-ohm or 4-ohm.. The included subwoofer is a 4-ohm model and provides you with up to 150 watts of continuous
power from your amplifier to your subwoofer. This is safe for the woofer and makes the amplifier work at a lower temperature than if it
ran at a 2-ohm load. Given the tight quarters in the recess of the Intra-Pod, this is better for the amplifier’s lifespan.
capable of running in 2-ohm or 4-ohm.. The included subwoofer is a 4-ohm model and provides you with up to 150 watts of continuous
power from your amplifier to your subwoofer. This is safe for the woofer and makes the amplifier work at a lower temperature than if it
ran at a 2-ohm load. Given the tight quarters in the recess of the Intra-Pod, this is better for the amplifier’s lifespan.
First, place the Intra-Pod between the seats as it will be when installed. Make sure you can shift into 2
nd
, 4
th
, and reverse without hitting
the front of the unit. (A select few may have to install the unit slightly toward the rear of the vehicle.) Next, mark where two slits in the
carpet will be made, one for PWR, GRD, REM. wires, and one for RCA inputs and Bass Controller wires. Place the Kicker amplifier in
the cavity and you’ll see that the slit for the PWR., etc. should be made by the passenger side vent . The slit for the RCA’s and bass
controller should be made by the larger front vent to line up and enter at good spots to connect to the amp.
carpet will be made, one for PWR, GRD, REM. wires, and one for RCA inputs and Bass Controller wires. Place the Kicker amplifier in
the cavity and you’ll see that the slit for the PWR., etc. should be made by the passenger side vent . The slit for the RCA’s and bass
controller should be made by the larger front vent to line up and enter at good spots to connect to the amp.
Next, run the RCA input wires, Bass Controller wire, REM., BATT. and GND wires from their points of origin through the slits in carpet,
pulling enough wire through to connect to the amplifier sitting somewhere near its final resting position but not actually installed in the
console underbelly yet. This will make the wiring as short as it can be for now so you can fuss with the dials on the amp and tune it.
(Once the amp’s in the underbelly, getting to the controls to change settings isn’t as easy, although the Kicker amp isn’t too bad -they can
be accessed from the front vent area.) The passenger seat is a pretty good spot to set the amp for now. Next, connect about 4 ft. of speaker
wire to woofer. (enough to run to the amp for now). Pull the speaker wire through the grommet hole in the console and attach woofer to
pod temporarily for tuning purposes. (Yes, you’ll have to remove the woofer later to attach the console to the Jeep, sorry.)
pulling enough wire through to connect to the amplifier sitting somewhere near its final resting position but not actually installed in the
console underbelly yet. This will make the wiring as short as it can be for now so you can fuss with the dials on the amp and tune it.
(Once the amp’s in the underbelly, getting to the controls to change settings isn’t as easy, although the Kicker amp isn’t too bad -they can
be accessed from the front vent area.) The passenger seat is a pretty good spot to set the amp for now. Next, connect about 4 ft. of speaker
wire to woofer. (enough to run to the amp for now). Pull the speaker wire through the grommet hole in the console and attach woofer to
pod temporarily for tuning purposes. (Yes, you’ll have to remove the woofer later to attach the console to the Jeep, sorry.)
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INSTALLATION - PART 1