WineMate Wine Cooling Unit - Rear Exhaust 使用とお手入れ
Appendix
I. Enclosure
This is only a guide and should be considered as minimum requirements.
All interior walls and floors should have a vapor barrier and a minimum of R11
insulation. All exterior walls and ceiling should have a vapor barrier and a
minimum of R19 insulation. The vapor barrier should be installed on the warm
side of the insulation. There should be no glass doors. All joints, door frames,
electrical outlets or switches and any pipes or vents that go through the
enclosure should be sealed to prevent air and moisture leakage into the room.
Concrete, rock, and brick are not insulation or vapor barriers.
Doors should be of a minimum size, insulated to at least R11 and tightly sealed
with high quality weather stripping. Be sure to seal the bottom of the door and fill
gap between the door’s frame and wall before installing the cap molding.
Lighting should be of low wattage, with a timer to insure lights are not left on
when the enclosure is not occupied. Recessed lighting should not be used as it
will allow outside air to enter the enclosure.
The ambient temperature surrounding the enclosure should not exceed the
temperature of the cellar by more than 25
°
F. No enclosure wall should receive
direct sun or strong wind. Proper sealing of the enclosure through the use of a
vapor barrier and weather stripping cannot be over emphasized.
The cooling system will not be able to maintain the proper conditions if fresh
moisture-laden air is constantly being introduced to the enclosure. Symptoms of
this condition are; unit runs all the time with only a slight reduction in temperature
and/or water overflows from the unit. One way of discovering gross air leaks is to
stand inside the enclosure with the lights off, allow your eyes to adapt to the dark
and look for light showing through cracks in the walls or around the door.
Because of the temperature difference between the inside and outside, very
small cracks can allow large amounts of outside air to enter into the enclosure.
Please be aware that moisture can pass through solid concrete, paint and wood.
Often a newly constructed room contains fresh wood, paint, concrete and other
building materials. These materials contain large amounts of moisture. When
placed into operation in this type of environment, the system will work harder to
remove this extra moisture resulting in increased “run” time.
In areas where the relative humidity is very low, the desired humidity may not be
achieved without adding moisture. To add moisture, use only slow, natural
evaporation from a small water container using distilled water. Do not use a
humidifier.
vapor barrier and weather stripping cannot be over emphasized.
The cooling system will not be able to maintain the proper conditions if fresh
moisture-laden air is constantly being introduced to the enclosure. Symptoms of
this condition are; unit runs all the time with only a slight reduction in temperature
and/or water overflows from the unit. One way of discovering gross air leaks is to
stand inside the enclosure with the lights off, allow your eyes to adapt to the dark
and look for light showing through cracks in the walls or around the door.
Because of the temperature difference between the inside and outside, very
small cracks can allow large amounts of outside air to enter into the enclosure.
Please be aware that moisture can pass through solid concrete, paint and wood.
Often a newly constructed room contains fresh wood, paint, concrete and other
building materials. These materials contain large amounts of moisture. When
placed into operation in this type of environment, the system will work harder to
remove this extra moisture resulting in increased “run” time.
In areas where the relative humidity is very low, the desired humidity may not be
achieved without adding moisture. To add moisture, use only slow, natural
evaporation from a small water container using distilled water. Do not use a
humidifier.
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