Festool DF 500 사용자 설명서

다운로드
페이지 24
Making Miter Box Joints 
Generally miter box joints are fairly weak because the joint is 
predominately endgrain to endgrain. Tenons significantly 
increase the strength of the joint and make it easier to 
assemble and clamp the pieces. 
Instruction Manual 
15 
Construction Tips   
► 
For thinner materials, keep the mortise close to the inside 
corner. This minimizes the chances for boring all the way 
through the workpiece. 
► 
For very thin materials, it may be necessary to shorten the 
► 
For thicker materials, stacked mortises can be used as 
shown in the picture to the right. 
 
Setup and Machining 
1. 
Tilt the fence to the appropriate angle. (Refer to the table 
2. 
Lower the fence to the desired height. Note that the 
mortise should be close to the inside corner to avoid 
penetrating through the workpiece. 
3. 
Plunge the joiner as shown below.  
► 
The stacked mortises are used for thicker stock. 
► 
Grasp the joiner by the auxiliary handle for best control. 
 
 
Making Lock Tenon Joints 
A locked tenon joint is any type of joint with two or more 
tenons at opposing angles. Once the opposing tenon(s) are 
inserted, the joint cannot be disassembled. With the 
exception of the Three-way Locked Miter Joint (page 18) at 
after the joint is assembled. This is referred to as the Locking 
Tenon. 
There are many variations of a locked tenon joint, but the 
simplest involve a mitered corner in a box or flat frame. The 
miter angle provides an easy reference for the two tenon 
angles. 
In the example shown to the right, a standard miter joint is 
constructed using a large Domino tenon for strength in the 
main joint. The locking tenon is a 5mm x 30mm Domino 
tenon.  
The mortise for the locking tenon is milled with the joiner’s 
plunge depth set to 28mm. This mortise is typically milled 
after the joint is assembled, but it is possible to mill the 
mortise in each piece separately.