Festool TS 55 EQ 사용자 설명서

No other saw on the market can outperform a Festool for 

splinter-free, fine crosscutting. With other saws, the problem 

is two-fold; getting a straight cut, and achieving a splinter-

free cut. The TS 55 handles these problems effortlessly. 

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TS 55 EQ Circular Saw 

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Use the correct blade for the cut. 

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Crosscutting fine veneered wood should use the fine 

crosscut blade. The Alternate-Top-Bevel teeth will slice 

the wood fibers best, with virtually no chipping. 

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Crosscutting soft lumber, or lumber-core veneers should 

use the combination blade. With fewer teeth than the 

fine crosscut blade, this blade will be more aggressive 

for cutting, yet still provide good chip-free cutting. 

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Crosscutting thick hardwood lumber, and difficult to cut 

lumber should use the coarse crosscut blade. The coarse 

tooth-count of this blade provides very aggressive 

cutting of difficult material, but won’t provide as 

smooth of a finish as the finer blades. 

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Cutting plastic-veneer countertops or solid surface 

materials should use the fine laminate blade. The Triple-

Chip-Grind of this blade lasts longer in hard materials 

and reduces chipping in man-made materials. The 

triple-chip-grind will provide good cuts in wood 

veneers, but not as good as the alternate-top-bevel fine 

crosscut blade. 

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For small offcuts, overhang the workpiece from a work 

table or saw horses (as shown below). For larger offcuts, 

support both the primary piece and the offcut. 

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If the offcut is reusable, use the outrigger splinter guard to 

prevent chipping. 

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Make sure the workpiece is secure. The lightweight door 

shown in the example below would slide on the table if 

not clamped down.  

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Make sure the guide rail is secure if it can move during the 

cut. In the example below, starting the cut with the saw 

behind the workpiece can cause the guide rail to tip up 

and move. (The guide rail clamps are below the guide rail, 

and not visible.)  

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Don’t start the cut by plunging the saw into the wood, as 

this can lead to tearout at the bottom-back of the sawblade. 

Start the cut with the blade down and behind the 

workpiece, and advance the saw forward into the cut. 

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Setting the blade depth too shallow (just barely 

penetrating the underside of the workpiece) can cause 

tearout on the underside of the cut.