Ramsey Electronics Fan Electronic Dripping Faucet 用户手册
EDF1
• 8
17. Install R10, 2K ohm resistor, [red-black-red] under Q1.
18. Install R5, 10K ohm resistor [brown-black-orange], to the right of R10
19. Install C3, .01 uF ceramic disc capacitor [marked 103] next to R5.
20. Install R4, 47K ohm resistor [yellow-violet-orange], next to C3.
21. Install R1, 100K ohm resistor [brown-black-yellow], next to R4.
22. Install C2. .01 uF ceramic disc capacitor, under Q1.
23. Install D1, 1N4148 silicon diode, under C2. Be sure the band on the
diode lines up with the band on the board drawing.
diode lines up with the band on the board drawing.
24. Install R7, 470K ohm resistor [yellow-violet-yellow], under R5.
25. Install JMP1, under R7, using a little piece of cutoff component lead.
26. Install R6, 1K ohm [brown-black-red], under JMP1.
SETUP AND TESTING
Testing out the EDF1 is really easy. Just solder an 8 ohm speaker into the
holes for the speaker which are located above the BAT1 pads. There’s no
silkscreen for these pads so you’ll need to look at the parts layout diagram
to determine the “+” and “-” holes. Solder the positive or red wire of your
speaker into the “+” SPK pad. Solder the negative or black wire of your
speaker into the SPK “-” pad. If your speaker doesn’t have “+” and “-” la-
bels, don’t worry, it will work fine anyway.
holes for the speaker which are located above the BAT1 pads. There’s no
silkscreen for these pads so you’ll need to look at the parts layout diagram
to determine the “+” and “-” holes. Solder the positive or red wire of your
speaker into the “+” SPK pad. Solder the negative or black wire of your
speaker into the SPK “-” pad. If your speaker doesn’t have “+” and “-” la-
bels, don’t worry, it will work fine anyway.
Solder in the 9V battery snap into the BAT1 pads. Now adjust R8 for vol-
ume and R2 for the decay time of the drip sound. Play with these two until
you get the most obnoxious sound possible. You can also twiddle with the
value of R1. If you want to run your EDF1 at lower voltages, you can re-
duce R1 to something like 220K. This will lengthen the sound and provide
a longer “drip”.
ume and R2 for the decay time of the drip sound. Play with these two until
you get the most obnoxious sound possible. You can also twiddle with the
value of R1. If you want to run your EDF1 at lower voltages, you can re-
duce R1 to something like 220K. This will lengthen the sound and provide
a longer “drip”.
TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE
If your kit doesn’t work it’s most likely a transistor put it wrong, or a polarized
component in backwards. Just make sure the transistor is lined up correctly
and the electrolytic caps are in the right way. If all this checks out, make sure
the right resistors are in the right places. Check your solder joints to be sure
they’re solid and look for solder splashes, solder bridges, cold solder joints or
unsoldered components.
and the electrolytic caps are in the right way. If all this checks out, make sure
the right resistors are in the right places. Check your solder joints to be sure
they’re solid and look for solder splashes, solder bridges, cold solder joints or
unsoldered components.