honda-automobiles estart kit User Manual
1
Instructions for the Estart Kit
XR400
Read the instructions before you do anything and if there are questions call 408.924.0139
First off you must be competent with basic hand tools and be patient otherwise you might break a lot
of things. The only special tool required is a Honda Fly Wheel Puller, which can be had at any local
bike store.
Lets begin. First put the bike on a Jack or stand and drain all of the oil. There is a plug by the
alternator side to help drain the left side.
of things. The only special tool required is a Honda Fly Wheel Puller, which can be had at any local
bike store.
Lets begin. First put the bike on a Jack or stand and drain all of the oil. There is a plug by the
alternator side to help drain the left side.
Remove the seat, tank, skid plate shift lever, and the connectors from the alternator cover. You will
have to remove the crank vent assembly; now I can’t legally tell you to throw it as faraway as possible
but when they stick and they do it will blow out every seal in your motor. Now I can’t tell you to
replace it but I have seen people run a hose up to the air box and put on a little uni-filter. Keep it high
up if you forge deep streams. Remember I can’t tell you to do this so if you do its on your on accord.
have to remove the crank vent assembly; now I can’t legally tell you to throw it as faraway as possible
but when they stick and they do it will blow out every seal in your motor. Now I can’t tell you to
replace it but I have seen people run a hose up to the air box and put on a little uni-filter. Keep it high
up if you forge deep streams. Remember I can’t tell you to do this so if you do its on your on accord.
Next remove the alternator cover from the motor. Pull out the stud that’s left in the engine case. Now
carefully remove the three 8mm screw and 2 8mm screws holding the stator and pick-up. (Hint
degreases every thing makes life easier). Be aware of how the cable and cable hold-downs are
situated.
Now carefully install the stator (hopefully you got a
200 watt version) and pick-up in the new cover use
locktite on the screws (just a little please). Bend the
cable tabs a bit to make sure it does not rub. You
may have to pull the wires through the rubber
grommet, as some stators are a little short. It is
imperative that there is enough strain relief in the
harness.
Remove the Alternator/flywheel, and inspect the key
to make sure there are no burrs or distortions.
Check the crank to make sure it’s clean and
smooth. If not sand with Emory cloth. It is
imperative that there are no high spots or burrs
other wise you will experience the sadness of your
bike dying due to shavings collecting on the coils
from the fly wheel rubbing.
carefully remove the three 8mm screw and 2 8mm screws holding the stator and pick-up. (Hint
degreases every thing makes life easier). Be aware of how the cable and cable hold-downs are
situated.
Now carefully install the stator (hopefully you got a
200 watt version) and pick-up in the new cover use
locktite on the screws (just a little please). Bend the
cable tabs a bit to make sure it does not rub. You
may have to pull the wires through the rubber
grommet, as some stators are a little short. It is
imperative that there is enough strain relief in the
harness.
Remove the Alternator/flywheel, and inspect the key
to make sure there are no burrs or distortions.
Check the crank to make sure it’s clean and
smooth. If not sand with Emory cloth. It is
imperative that there are no high spots or burrs
other wise you will experience the sadness of your
bike dying due to shavings collecting on the coils
from the fly wheel rubbing.
Now in stall the Shim marked P1, (This is the thicker of the two shims) follow with the crank adapter.
Hint: Rotate motor so key is facing up.
Crank adapter