Festool PD561287 User Manual

 

26 

Kapex KS120 Miter Saw 

Calibrating the bevel angle uses the same 4-cut method 

described in the 

page 24. Refer to the discussion on page 24 for an 
explanation of the method. 

Except for cutting tall miters, the bevel setting accuracy is 

generally less critical than the miter setting accuracy. Take 

care not to attempt to over-calibrate this setting. 

You will need a piece of scrap wood that is between 4 and 

4-3/4 inches on a side. The scrap does not need to be 
perfectly square, but at least the first edge must be 

straight. The larger the piece, the more accurate your final 

measurement will be, but 4-3/4” is the maximum size that 
can be cut using the Tall Miter Setting (see page 14). 

The material can be anything, but Medium Density 

Fiberboard (MDF) will give you the cleanest cuts, and 

therefore, the easiest to measure.  

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High density plywood, such as Baltic birch, will also give 

very accurate results. 

► 

Low-grade plywood may have rough edges, depending 
on the quality, and therefore, may provide the lowest 

accuracy. 

► 

Solid wood can also be used, but you may experience 
burning on the rip-cuts if you are using a fine-tooth 

blade. 

You will need a ruler to measure the length of the final 

offcut, and optionally, a dial caliper to accurately measure 
the difference in the width of the offcut at both ends. This 

width measurement is the most critical, so a dial caliper is 

recommended. 
 

 

It does not matter whether your measurements 

are in metric units or imperial units.  

 

Before adjusting the saw, you first need to measure 

whether it is accurately calibrated to begin with. The 

factory calibration threshold is ±0.5°. If you attempt to 

exceed this calibration threshold, you may end up actually 
making the saw less accurate. 

1. 

Number the sides of the scrap piece of wood from 1 to 

4, starting with the best edge.  

► 

If you cut the wood on the left side of the blade (as 

shown in this example), then number the sides in a 

counterclockwise direction (as shown). 

► 

If you cut the wood on the right side of the blade, 

then number the sides in a clockwise direction. 

► 

Note that this is the opposite from the miter 

calibration numbering. 

2. 

On the #1 side, which will eventually become the final 

calibration offcut, label it “Left” and “Right” as shown. 

Do this regardless whether the cut is made on the left 
or right side of the sawblade. 

3. 

Lock the saw in the Tall Miter position. Refer to page 

4. 

Make sure that both auxiliary fences are in place and 
supporting the workpiece. Refer to page 13. 

5. 

Place the scrap on the saw with the number “1” facing 

down against the base of the saw. 

 

WARNING! This procedure involves cutting small 

workpieces. To reduce the risk of injury, always 

clamp the workpiece to the saw.  

6. 

Cut approximately 1/4-inch off the board, so that there 

is at least a 1/8-inch offcut. This offcut ensures that 
the sawblade will be stable because there is wood on 

both sides of the blade during the entire cut. 

 

7. 

Rotate the board with side #2 against the base and 

repeat the same cut. Note that the side previously cut 

is now against the base for each of the four cuts 
described below. 

8. 

Rotate the board to side #3 against the base and 

repeat the same cut. 

9. 

Rotate the board to side #4 against the base, but this 

time, make the cut a little wider, so that the offcut is 

large enough to handle without breaking it 

(approximately 1/4 to 1/2 inch wide). 

10. 

Discard the first three offcuts, but the fourth offcut is 

the calibration offcut.