GE RAG61 Instruccion De Instalación

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Masonry Wall Construction (Cont.)
to install the chassis. See page 27 for details of installation in
masonry wall.
For existing masonry construction, wall openings must be
made. This normally involves the removal of concrete blocks
to achieve the proper size opening. Consult the builder,
architect, or owner to determine the necessity for lintels to
support the block above the wall case.
Anchor bolts are normally required to secure the case to the
wall and shims may be required to prevent distortion of the
wall case when securing the wall case to the wall. Field
supplied case angles can be used to position and secure the
wall case to the wall and to cover oversized wall openings.
Wall Case Installation Data
Brick, Frame, Stucco and Shingle Construction
For new construction, the opening for the wall case should
be framed and the wall case inserted into the opening
during construction. Lintels should be used when the
building material is heavy and is not self supporting (such as
brick). The wall case will fit an opening of six courses of
standard brick or five courses of jumbo brick. Wall framing
in this type construction is normally on 16" centers and the
wall case will fit a framed opening spanning three 16" O.C.
2" x 4" stud spaces.
For existing construction the indoor and outdoor wall will
need to be cut out, allowing for clearances of 1/8" on all
sides of the wall case. Work should begin on the inside wall.
Cut the correct dimensions and mark (using drill holes) the
outside wall from each corner of the inside cutout. Studding
that interferes with the opening must be removed and a
suitable frame constructed to secure the wall case and
provide adequate support for case and chassis.
Preparation of the Wall Case for All Types of
Construction
As shipped, the RAB71 or RAB77 is ready for installation.
Do not remove the stiffener from inside the wall case or the
weather closure panel from the outside face of the wall case
until the outdoor grille and chassis are ready to be installed.
Installation of Wall Case in Wall Opening
1. Position the wall case into the wall. The room side edge of
the RAB71 or RAB77 wall case should be at least flush
with the finished wall for line cord installations and
permanent connection installations when no sub-base is
used, and should project into the room at least 2-3/8"
when a sub-base is used. If the minimum exterior
dimensions are not met, refer to page 28 and 29. The
outside edge of the wall case should extend at least 1/4"
beyond the outside wall. This is necessary for proper
caulking, to prevent sealing the drain holes in the rear
flange of the wall case, and to facilitate the installation of
an accessory drain, if used.
2. The wall case should be secured to the wall at both sides.
Use a minimum of two screws or other fastening device on
each side. See Figure 2 page 24. Mark the wall case on
each side 2" from the bottom and 2" from the top at a
point where basic wall structure is located. Drill wall case
and use fasteners appropriate for wall construction. All
holes for fasteners in the side of the wall case must be at
least  2" up from the bottom of the wall case. Never locate
screws or put other holes in the bottom of the wall case.
The only exception is when an RAD10 drain kit is
installed to connect to an internal drain system. See page
34 for RAD10 Drain Kit information.
    If the wall opening is greater than the case dimensions,
spacers must be used on the sides between the wall case
and the wall support structure to prevent distorting the
wall case.
3. Caulk or gasket the entire opening on the outside between
the wall case and exterior wall surface (4 sides) to provide
total water and air seal.
4. Caulk or gasket room-side opening between wall case and
interior wall surface (4 sides). Opening beneath or
around the wall case can allow outdoor air to leak into the
room resulting in increased operating costs and improper
room temperature control.
Case Angles
In some installations such as curtain walls, window walls, or
where the structural material of the wall is insufficient to
support or fasten wall case to, the use of case angles may be
used. Case angles are pieces of steel or other material of
similar structural strength that are formed to a 90° angle,
with holes to fasten the case angle to the wall case and to the
structural component of the wall surrounding the
wall case.
The following describes the procedure when field fabricated
and installed case angles are applied.
1. Position case angles around top and sides of wall case at
the desired location. Position case angles vertically on
each side of wall case to provide a level installation.
2. Mark wall case through holes in case angles. The lowest
hole on the sides of the wall case must be a minimum of
2" above the bottom of the case
3. For RAB71 wall case drill 5/32" diameter holes at
locations marked on wall case in Step 2, and assemble
angles to wall case using #10 x 1/2" self tapping screws.
For RAB77 wall case follow the same procedure except use
a #10 x 1/2" bolt, washer and nut to attach case angles to
case. Install screws or bolts from outside
wall case.
4. Do not drill any holes in bottom of wall case. Do not
distort wall case.
5. Do not use case angles for a lintel.
The wall case should be level from side to side and front
to back. The condensate disposal system in the unit is
designed to dissipate the condensate water generated
during cooling operation in accordance with ARI
standards and actually uses this water for maximum unit
efficiency. A level unit will also insure proper
performance of the Internal Condensate Removal (ICR)
system optional on heat pump units.
Care should be taken in location of electrical supply entry
in relationship to wall sleeve to assure access to receptacle
or junction box once unit is installed.
• Refer to page 38 for maximum power cord length.
• Permanent connected units close to finished floor must
  allow for conduit clearance.