Honda fireblade cbr929rr '00 Manuale Di Servizio

Pagina di 4
START
Count the # of different wire-COLOURS emerging from the RR. If there's a yellow wire on a
Yamaha RR, don't count it (it is a special output-wire for switching the lights on and off)
More than 4
Or if there is no RR on the
bike at all
4 or
less
You've got a permanent magnet alternator system. Let the engine idle, and
connect the black multimeter-lead up to the battery(+). Connect the red
multimeter-lead up to the red (or white-red = Kawasaki) output wire of the RR.
Leave the RR connected up to the bike. Check the reading on the meter. Leave
the engine idling !
VERY IMPORTANT :
This fault-finding chart assumes that the user has knowledge of the basics of electricity (Voltage, current, resistance, etc.),and
about electrical systems on motorcycles in general. If you do not have this knowledge/experience, find someone that has and let
her/him check the charging-system on the bike. The use of this fault-finding chart is entirely at the risk of the user. The author
cannot be held resposible for any damage that could arise from the use of this fault-finding chart.
Fully charge the battery. If the battery is not fully charged you may get wrong results using this fault-finding chart.You could just
replace it with a battery off another motorcycle that has a good functioning charging-system.
Use an accurate digital multimeter! RR means Regulator/Rectifier. This whole fault-finding chart only works if you have a bike with
a combined regulator and rectifier ( = regulator/rectifier) in a single case
Switch the multimeter to DC Volts (DCV or Vdc)
Switch the range to 20 or 50 V. Connect the
multimeter-leads to the battery-terminals. Start
and rev the engine up to 2500 rpm. Check the
battery-voltage
Higher than
13.5 V
Lower than
13.5 V
Rev the engine up to
5000 rpm. Check the
reading on the meter.
Higher than
14.8 V
Lower than
14.8 V
Charging system perfectly OK.
You could still disconnect most of
the connections on the bike and
spray them with contactcleaner
or WD40. This could prevent
problems in the future.
more than 0.2 V
Bad connection in the positive lead from
RR to battery(+). Check the whole lead
(suspect the connectors as well as the
fuse-box and fuses). Good connections
are extremely important in this high
current lead. Solve the problem and
return to START
Less than 0.2 V
Connect the red multimeter-lead up to the battery(-). Connect the black
multimeter-lead up to the negative output of the RR (Honda : Green, Suzuki :
Black-white, Yamaha : Black, Kawasaki : black, other brands normally use a
black wire). If you can't find a negative output-wire, then the casing of the RR is
normally the negative lead to the frame. Check the reading on the meter. Leave
the engine idling !
more than 0.2 V
Bad connection in the negative lead from
RR to battery(-). Check the whole lead to
the battery(-). If the RR doesn't have an
output-lead but uses the case as
connection to the frame, clean the area
where it is bolted and use new screws.
Also check the connection between
battery(-) and frame. Also suspect the
plate on which the RR is mounted
(sometimes it is rubbermounted and uses
an extra cable from this plate to the
battery(-) or frame). Disconnect all
suspect terminals and clean. Best
solution : connect the RR straight up to
the battery(-) with an extra lead. Solve
the problem and return to START
less than
0.2 V
Goto
D
Goto
B
F
AULT
-
FINDING
 
CHART
 
FOR
 
MOTORCYCLE
 
CHARGING
-
SYSTEMS
TAKE NOTICE OF THE FOLLOWING :
 Suzuki used on the older GS models three different colours for the three output-wires of the stator. They were the only manufacturer doing this.The
only reason for this can be to cause confusion, because the output of all the three wires is the same. The colours on the wires from the stator are :
Yellow, White/blue and White/green. On the Suzuki RR for these models we're talking : Yellow, White/blue and White/red.
JUST THINK THEM ALL BEING YELLOW, and then go on with the tests below
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OPYRIGHT
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LECTREX
 USA 1999