Husqvarna 235 用户手册

18 – English

5451546-93 Rev.4 2008-04-16

• Arrangement of branches
• Weight of snow
• Obstacles within the reach of the tree: for example, 

other trees, power lines, roads and buildings.

• Look for signs of damage and rot in the stem, this makes 

it more probably that the tree will break and start to fall 
before you expect it to. 

You may find you are forced to let the tree fall in its natural 
direction because it is impossible or dangerous to try to 
make it fall in the direction you first intended.

Another very important factor, which does not affect the 
felling direction but does affect your safety, is to make sure 
the tree has no damaged or dead branches that might 
break off and hit you during felling.

The main point to avoid is letting the tree fall onto another 
tree. It is very dangerous to remove a trapped tree and 
there is high accident risk. See instructions under the 
heading Freeing a tree that has fallen badly.

Delimb the stem up to shoulder height. It is safer to work 
from the top down and to have the tree between you and 
the saw.  

Remove any undergrowth from the base of the tree and 
check the area for obstacles (stones, branches, holes, etc.) 
so that you have a clear path of retreat when the tree starts 
to fall. Your path of retreat should be roughly 135 degrees 
away from the intended felling direction. (39)

Felling is done using three cuts. First you make the 
directional cuts, which consist of the top cut and the bottom 
cut, then you finish with the felling cut. By placing these 
cuts correctly you can control the felling direction very 
accurately.

To make the directional cuts you begin with the top cut. 
Stand to the right of the tree and cut on the pull stroke.

Next make the bottom cut so that it finishes exactly at the 
end of the top cut. (40)

The directional cuts should run 1/4 of the diameter through 
the trunk and the angle between the top cut and bottom cut 
should be 45

°.

The line where the two cuts meet is called the directional 
cut line. This line should be perfectly horizontal and at right 
angles (90

°) to the chosen felling direction. (41)

The felling cut is made from the opposite side of the tree 
and it must be perfectly horizontal. Stand on the left side of 
the tree and cut on the pull stroke.

Make the felling cut about 1.5-2 inches (3-5 cm) above the 
bottom directional cut. (42)

Finish the felling cut parallel with the directional cut line so 
that the distance between them is at least 1/10 of the trunk 
diameter. The uncut section of the trunk is called the felling 
hinge.

The felling hinge controls the direction that the tree falls in. 
(43)

All control over the felling direction is lost if the felling hinge 
is too narrow or non-existent, or if the directional cuts and 
felling cut are badly placed.

When the felling cut and directional cut are complete the 
tree should start to fall by itself or with the aid of a felling 
wedge or breaking bar.

We recommend that you use a bar that is longer than the 
diameter of the tree, so that you can make the felling cut 
and directional cuts with single cutting strokes. See 
instructions under the heading Technical data section to 
find out which lengths of bar are recommended for your 
saw.

There are methods for felling trees with a diameter larger 
than the bar length. However these methods involve a 
much greater risk that the kickback zone of the bar will 
come into contact with the tree.

It is very dangerous to remove a trapped tree and there is 
high accident risk.

Never try to fell the tree that is trapped.

Never work in the risk zone of the hanging trapped tree.

The safest method is to use a winch.

• Tractor-mounted

• Portable

Preparations: Work out which side is in tension and where 
the point of maximum tension is (i.e. where it would break 
if it was bent even more).

Decide which is the safest way to release the tension and 
whether you are able to do it safely. In complicated 
situations the only safe method is to put aside your chain 
saw and use a winch.

Position yourself so that you will be clear of the tree or 
branch when the tension is released.

Make one or more cuts at or near the point of maximum 
tension. Make as many cuts of sufficient depth as 
necessary to reduce the tension and make the tree or 
branch break at the point of maximum tension.

If you must cut across tree/limb, make two to three cuts, 
one inch apart, one to two inches deep.

Continue to cut deeper until tree/limb bends and tension is 
released.

Cut tree/limb from outside the bend, after tension has been 
released.

IMPORTANT! During critical felling operations, hearing 
protectors should be lifted immediately when sawing is 
completed so that sounds and warning signals can be 
heard.